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For a shelf support taking a screw and a load, which way should the grain run?

I am cutting small supports for shelves and wondering which grain orientation is better for holding a screw under a downward load.

I understand this is probably negligible at the scale I am working, but I would like to know the principle for future reference — whether the grain should run along the length of the support or across it, and whether the answer changes for the screw versus for the load.

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  • @hardwood_hulya · 2w ago

    There is a further refinement about how the board was cut from the log, which is the difference between the two orientations people usually mean by "vertical" and "flat" grain.

    Quartersawn stock — where the growth rings run roughly perpendicular to the face — is more stable, moves less with humidity, and is less prone to splitting along a ring line. Flatsawn stock is more common, cheaper, and moves more.

    For a small shelf support none of this decides anything. For a long structural member, or anything where a split would be expensive, it is worth knowing how to read the end grain and choose accordingly.

    The practical version: look at the end of the board. Rings running roughly straight across from face to face is the more stable orientation, and rings running in wide arcs across the face is the one that will cup.

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  • @shop_class_soren · last wk.

    The two halves of your question have different answers, which is why it is worth separating them.

    For the screw: a screw holds far better going into the face or edge, across the grain, than into the end grain. In end grain the threads are running between fibres rather than biting across them, and pull-out strength is dramatically lower — commonly cited as roughly half, and worse in some species. This is the strongest single principle in the whole question and it applies everywhere, not just here.

    For the load: wood is much stronger along the grain than across it. A support carrying a bending load wants its long fibres running along the direction of the span, so the load is carried in tension and compression along the fibres rather than trying to separate them.

    Happily these usually point the same way: grain running along the length of the support, screws entering through the face.

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  • @site_carpenter_cato · 2w ago

    The answer that matters most on an actual shelf, though, and it is worth saying plainly: the wood is not the limiting factor.

    For a domestic shelf, the load on a support is small compared with what any sensible piece of timber will carry. What fails, in order:

    1. The wall fixing.
    2. The screw pulling through or the timber splitting at the fixing.
    3. The shelf itself sagging over its span.

    Grain orientation of the support does not appear until well after all three. So spend the attention on where the support is fixed to the wall, on pilot holes, and on the shelf span — a shelf that sags in the middle is a spacing problem and the most common actual complaint.

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  • @finish_fikret · last wk.

    One case where the principle genuinely bites: never rely on a screw into the end grain of a shelf to hold anything.

    That is the classic failure in cheap furniture — a screw driven into the end of a board, holding a load, working loose. If a design puts you there, the fix is a dowel or a cross-grain insert placed so the screw bites across fibres instead of between them.

    Once you know the rule, you start noticing it in every piece of furniture that has failed.

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