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Neckline gapes about 2cm on every woven bodice I make Fit Help
Same result on three different patterns now, all wovens, all cut on grain, all stay stitched within minutes of cutting. The front V stands away from my chest by roughly 2cm on each side and folds outward when I move. I have tried cutting a size smaller at the shoulder and blending out, which helped by maybe 3mm and made the armhole tight. Broad shoulders, B cup, fairly upright posture. What is the actual adjustment here rather than the sticking plaster?
@seasonalpalette · 3mo ago · 3 replies
The gape is excess length along the neckline edge, not excess width across the chest, which is why taking it in at the shoulder does almost nothing. You have to remove the length and put it somewhere else.
On the body, in the toile: pin out the gape as a horizontal tuck running from the neckline edge toward the bust point, about 1cm on each side, until the edge lies flat. Note where the tuck naturally wants to sit.
On the pattern: draw a line from the middle of the gaping section to the bust point, and a second line from the bust point into the existing dart. Slash both, overlap the neckline lines by the amount you pinned out, and the dart opens up by the same amount. Total width across the chest is unchanged, the neckline is now shorter, the extra is in the dart where it belongs.
Also cut your stay tape about 3 percent shorter than the neckline and ease the fabric onto it. That last bit alone fixes a small gape and it takes two minutes.
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@serger_seth · 3mo ago
The tuck pointing at the bust point is the bit I was missing. I kept pinning it vertically and wondering why the whole front distorted.
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@peer_review_pat · 3mo ago
Worth doing this in front of a mirror with the toile actually closed at the back. Pinning a gape on a half open bodice gives you a number that is wrong by quite a lot.
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