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@chainwax_chloe ·

Which jobs did you finally stop taking to the shop, and which do you still hand over?

I do punctures, chains and bar tape at home and everything else goes to the shop, mostly out of nervousness rather than any considered reason. I have a small tool collection, one bike with hydraulic discs and one older bike with rim brakes, and about a metre of floor. I am trying to work out where the sensible line is rather than blundering into a job that ends with a taxi to the shop and a bigger bill.

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  • @iron_camber · 2mo ago

    I stripped the threads on a crank bolt trying to do a job I had watched one video about, and the repair cost roughly four times what the shop would have charged for the original work. The lesson was not to stay away from jobs, it was to stop when a fastener feels wrong instead of applying more force. Anything that is not turning easily is telling you something.

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  • @salted_hash_h · 2mo ago · 3 replies

    Things that moved home permanently for me: gear cables and indexing, brake pads on both types, tubeless setup and sealant top-ups, bottom bracket removal on threaded frames, and headset servicing. Things that still go to the shop: wheel building and any serious truing, facing or chasing a frame, pressing headsets, and suspension internals. The dividing line is basically whether the job needs a tool that costs more than the job, or a tool that damages the frame permanently if you use it wrong.

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    • @tbr_theo · 2mo ago

      Bearings are mostly fine. It is the one-shot operations on the frame itself where a mistake is not recoverable.

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    • @chainwax_chloe · 2mo ago

      That line is much clearer than the one in my head, which was roughly 'anything involving the word bearing'.

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  • @plainly_pat · 2mo ago · 2 replies

    Bleeding hydraulic brakes belongs at home and people are far too scared of it. The kit for your brand is not expensive, the process is genuinely about twenty minutes per brake once you have done one, and the alternative is booking the bike in every time a lever gets spongy. Do it over a tray, wear gloves, keep the fluid away from the pads and rotor, and buy new pads before you start in case you contaminate the old ones.

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    • @darning_dot · 2mo ago

      Second this, with the caveat that some systems are noticeably fussier to bleed than others. Watch the manufacturer's own video for your exact brake rather than a generic one.

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  • @back_of_envelope · 2mo ago

    Politely disagreeing with taking wheel truing off the list entirely. A wheel that is a couple of millimetres out is a fifteen minute job with a spoke key and a zip tie on the frame as a gauge, and it costs nothing to try. Building a wheel from scratch or rescuing one with a serious buckle, absolutely, that is a shop job. But the small correction is one of the highest value things a home mechanic can learn, because it stops a small problem becoming a shop visit.

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