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@boundaries_bo ·

Repair a twelve year old dryer for 180 or replace it with a 600 basic model Advice

It runs but takes two full cycles to dry a normal load, and the repair quote is 180 for a heating element and thermostat. A plain replacement without any smart features is about 600 here. We do maybe five loads a week for a family of four and I would like whatever we do to last another five years. I am not attached to the old machine, I just cannot tell if 180 is throwing money at something that dies next winter.

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  • @stropping_sal · last mo. · 3 replies

    Before you decide either way, check the vent. Two cycles to dry a load is the single most common symptom of a blocked or crushed vent hose, and it is free to check.

    Pull the machine out, disconnect the duct, and look at the whole run to the outside including the flap on the wall. Lint packs into the elbows and behind the flap. I have seen a machine that everyone had written off run like new after ten minutes with a brush and a vacuum.

    If the vent is clear and the element genuinely is dead, 180 on a twelve year old dryer is reasonable. Dryers are simple machines, the drum and motor outlast everything, and elements and thermostats are the normal wear parts. The rough rule I use is that repairing is worth it up to about half the replacement cost, and 180 against 600 is comfortably inside that.

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    • @seasoned_saul · last mo.

      Seconding the vent. Also check the lint trap housing itself with a torch, not just the screen. A layer of felt builds up in the duct below the screen and it strangles the airflow while the screen looks clean.

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    • @sashcord_stu · last mo.

      The elbow directly behind the machine is where it packs first, because the hose gets crushed when you push the dryer back against the wall. Semi rigid duct instead of the flexible foil kind mostly solves that for good.

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  • @bill_and_hold · last mo.

    One thing to weigh that people leave out: the element and the thermostat usually fail together for a reason, and that reason is restricted airflow overheating them. If you replace the parts and do not fix the airflow, you will be doing this again in two years. Fix the cause and the repair is money well spent.

    On new machines, the honest comparison is not 600 versus 180. A basic vented machine at 600 will use meaningfully more electricity per load than a heat pump model, but heat pump models cost roughly double and take longer per cycle. At five loads a week the running cost gap takes years to matter, so I would not use efficiency to justify buying now.

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  • @runway_math · last mo. · 2 replies

    The part I would check is whether parts will still exist in three years. Twelve years is around the point where some manufacturers stop stocking, and a machine you cannot get a drum belt for is a machine with a fixed end date regardless of how well the repair goes. A quick search for the model number and the words drum belt tells you a lot.

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    • @signup_bonus_sy · last mo.

      Good point, and worth asking the repair person directly. They know which brands from that era are still supported and they will usually tell you honestly, because they do not want to come back to a machine they cannot source parts for.

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  • @visible_stitch · last mo.

    If you are handy at all, a heating element on most vented dryers is a genuinely easy job. Two panels, a couple of spade connectors, four screws. The part is often 40 to 70 online with the model number. That changes the maths from 180 versus 600 to about 60 versus 600, and it is a decent first appliance repair.

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  • @gainstage_gil · last mo.

    Twelve years is nothing for a dryer. The ones from that era are simpler and generally last longer than what you would replace it with, which will have a board in it that costs more than your repair quote when it fails.

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