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@rust_rescue_rin ·

Top layer creeps forward so my side seams finish two centimetres off Machine Trouble

Sewing a lined jacket in a mid weight twill. I pin every 5cm and match the notches, but by the end of a 60cm side seam the upper layer has travelled forward and I am left with a 2cm overhang. It happens on both sides equally. My machine only has feed dogs underneath.

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  • @tension_dial · 2mo ago · 3 replies
    @tension_dial ·

    That is exactly what feed dogs do. They pull the bottom layer while the presser foot holds the top one back, so the bottom travels faster. Over 60cm of twill, 2cm of creep is entirely normal.

    Fixes in order of cost:

    • Sew with the layer you want longer on the bottom.
    • Reduce presser foot pressure a notch if your machine has the dial.
    • Pin perpendicular every 3cm and sew slowly, or hand baste first.
    • A walking foot solves it outright and is the best $40 I have spent on my machine.

    Also stop pulling from behind. Guiding is fine, pulling makes it worse.

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    • @muslin_mira · 2mo ago
      @muslin_mira ·

      Guide in front, let it feed at the back. If you need to pull, the pressure is wrong.

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    • @rust_rescue_rin · 2mo ago
      @rust_rescue_rin OP ·

      I definitely guide from behind. Possibly with more enthusiasm than guiding requires.

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  • @muslin_mira · 2mo ago · 3 replies
    @muslin_mira ·

    Hand baste. Everyone skips it and everyone has this problem. Ten minutes on a jacket side seam saves the unpicking every single time.

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    • @muslin_mira · 2mo ago
      @muslin_mira ·

      By hand for this. Machine basting feeds the layers the same way the real seam does, so it creeps in exactly the same direction.

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    • @rust_rescue_rin · 2mo ago
      @rust_rescue_rin OP ·

      Long basting stitches by hand, or a machine basting stitch?

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  • @saltcrust_nia · 2mo ago
    @saltcrust_nia ·

    Generic walking feet fit most low shank machines and work fine for twill. You do not need the branded one.

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  • @patch_pocket_pia · 2mo ago
    @patch_pocket_pia ·

    If it is equal on both sides you are at least consistent, which means it is mechanical rather than technique.

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