Diagonal drag lines from hip to waist on the back of my trousers Fit Help
Lines run diagonally upward from the outer hip toward centre back, there is a horizontal pool of fabric just under the seat, and when I sit down the back waistband drops away from my body by about 3cm. Fabric is a mid weight twill with 2 percent elastane. I graded from a 12 waist to a 16 hip. Front looks completely clean. I have read about both full seat and flat seat adjustments and I cannot tell which one I am looking at.
@leafspot_lucia · 11mo ago · 2 replies
Drag lines point at what is tight. Yours run toward the centre back and there is pooling underneath, which is the classic signature of a back crotch curve that is too short and too shallow, so a full seat adjustment plus extra back rise.
On the pattern: draw a horizontal line across the back leg piece from the crotch point to the side seam, and a vertical line from the waist down through it. Slash and spread the horizontal line by 1.5 to 2.5cm at the centre back, tapering to nothing at the side seam, which lengthens and deepens the curve. Then add the same amount at the centre back waist and blend to nothing at the side, which is what stops the waistband dropping when you sit.
Do it in 1cm steps and re toile. This adjustment overshoots easily and then you get bagging, which looks similar and is more annoying to diagnose.
Reply
Report
@serger_seth · 11mo ago
Cutting the back with a 3cm centre back seam allowance on your next toile makes this much less painful, because you can let it out on the body instead of guessing on paper.
Reply
Report