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Is parking mode worth the wiring, or is it just a slow way to kill your battery? Dash Cams

Car lives on the street overnight and got scraped twice last year, both times with nobody leaving a note, which is the entire reason I am here. I have a cheap suction-mount camera that runs off the cigarette socket and switches off with the ignition, so it has never recorded either incident. Budget about $250 including installation. The thing stopping me is that everybody who mentions parking mode immediately mentions a flat battery, and I do not have a driveway to jump-start in comfortably.

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  • @seasonalpalette · last wk. · 3 replies

    Parking mode is worth it and the battery fear is solvable. A proper hardwire kit has a low-voltage cutoff you set yourself — when the car's battery drops to your chosen threshold, the kit cuts power to the camera rather than to your starter motor. Set it conservatively, especially on a car that only does short trips, because short trips do not put back what parking mode takes out.

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    • @carb_clean_cal · last wk.

      The short-trip point is the one that catches people. If your daily driving is fifteen minutes, your alternator is barely keeping up as it is, and parking mode on top of that will kill an ageing battery in a winter month.

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    • @pan_and_patina · last wk.

      Which is why the dedicated battery packs exist. They charge while you drive and then run the camera off their own cells, so the car battery is never in the equation. More expensive and they take up boot or footwell space, but the failure mode is a dead camera rather than a dead car.

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  • @deadline_dee · last wk.

    Terse: hardwire with a voltage cutoff, impact-triggered parking mode, high-endurance card, and check the card monthly. The last one is what everybody skips and it is why so many people have a camera that recorded nothing.

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  • @switchback_sid · last wk.

    Set expectations on what parking footage actually gets you. Buffered motion detection on a street-parked car gives you a lot of clips of pedestrians and a low-resolution plate at night if you are lucky. It absolutely helped me once and gave me nothing useful the other three times. Worth doing, not a guarantee.

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  • @boom_pole_bex · last wk. · 2 replies

    Impact-triggered rather than motion-triggered is the setting that made mine usable. Motion mode filled a card overnight with people walking past and then overwrote the one event I cared about. Impact mode sits idle until the G-sensor fires, uses far less power, and catches exactly the scrape scenario you described.

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    • @metronome_mira · last wk.

      Worth combining them if the camera allows it: impact-triggered as the default, with motion enabled only on a timer covering the hours the car is actually parked at home. Mine does that and the card lasts a week instead of a night.

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  • @layover_lucy · last wk.

    Heat and cold are the reason to care about what is inside the camera. Units with a supercapacitor instead of a lithium cell handle temperature extremes much better, which matters a lot when the thing lives on a windscreen through a summer and a winter. Almost every camera marketed for parking mode uses a supercapacitor for exactly this reason, and I would treat a lithium battery in a parking-mode camera as a red flag.

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  • @row_level_sam · 2w ago

    Budget note: $250 including install is realistic if the install is a hardwire kit into the fuse box, which is an hour of labour at most shops. It is not realistic if you also want a rear camera run to the tailgate, because that is the job that eats the money. Prioritise front camera plus hardwire this year.

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