I water every evening and I cannot tell whether that is too much or not enough

On what deeply actually means, since the phrase is useless without a number.

You are aiming to wet the soil to the depth the roots occupy: for most vegetables somewhere around fifteen to twenty-five centimetres. A light daily sprinkle wets the top two or three, and that is the problem: roots grow where the water is, so shallow watering produces shallow roots, and shallow-rooted plants then need watering every day. The habit creates the dependency.

How to tell you have got there:

Water, wait half an hour, then dig a small hole at the edge of the bed and look. This is worth doing exactly once. You will find out how long your hose or can needs to run to wet the depth you want, and after that you know your number.

Most people are shocked by how much water it takes, and by how little a couple of watering cans achieve on a bed.

Then water less often and much more. Twice a week deeply beats every evening lightly, in almost every soil, in almost every climate.

Water the soil, not the leaves, and water in the morning if you can. Evening watering leaves foliage wet overnight, which is how a lot of fungal problems start - and it is a second reason your evening routine may be working against you.

Stop watering on a schedule and start watering on a measurement. The measurement is your finger.

Push a finger into the soil to the second knuckle. Damp at that depth, do not water. Dry, water. That is the whole method and it is more reliable than any schedule, because it accounts for the weather, the soil and the plant all at once.

Why your evening habit is producing mixed results:

Wilting in the afternoon is not always thirst. Large-leaved plants like courgettes wilt in strong sun and recover by evening regardless of soil moisture. Watering in response to that is how people overwater. Check them in the morning, wilted at seven in the morning is genuinely dry.

Split tomatoes are a watering-consistency symptom, not a shortage. The fruit swells faster than the skin when a dry spell is followed by a lot of water. Even watering fixes it.

Yellowing lower leaves can be overwatering as easily as under. Constantly wet soil has no air in it and roots suffocate.

Your two beds differ because the soil differs: one is holding water and one is draining fast. They are different beds and should be watered differently, which a schedule cannot do and a finger can.

The change that halved my watering and fixed the consistency problem: mulch.

A layer of a few centimetres of compost, straw, grass clippings or leaf mould over the soil surface does several things at once:

Slows evaporation dramatically. Most of the water you lose from a bare bed goes straight up off the surface, not into plants.

Evens out the moisture, which is exactly what your split tomatoes need.

Keeps the soil cooler in a heatwave.

Suppresses weeds, which are competing for the water.

Leave a small gap around stems so nothing sits against them, and top it up as it breaks down.

Two other things worth doing for your two mismatched beds:

Add organic matter to both. It helps a fast-draining bed hold water and helps a soggy one drain, which sounds contradictory and is what compost actually does to soil structure.

Check the soggy bed for a drainage problem rather than assuming it is the soil, compacted ground underneath or a low spot will keep a bed wet no matter what you add.

And for anything in pots, none of the above applies in the same way. Pots dry out far faster and genuinely may need daily watering in summer, which is probably where your evening habit came from.