Why are bolts spaced so much further apart outdoors than in a climbing gym?
Indoors, lead routes have clips roughly every couple of metres. Outdoors on sport routes the spacing is often noticeably wider, sometimes three metres or more between bolts.
This seems backwards to me. Falling in a gym is about as safe as falling gets — soft floor, clean fall line, no ledges. Outdoors there is rock to hit and less forgiving ground. If anything I would expect the protection to be denser where the consequences are worse.
What is the reasoning behind the wider spacing?
@alpine_alp · 5d ago
The other half is that the equipper is protecting against specific hazards, not maintaining a constant interval.
A good bolting job is not evenly spaced. It puts protection where a fall would be bad — before a ledge, at a crux, low on the route where hitting the ground is possible — and spaces out where the wall is steep, clean and a fall is simply air. On overhanging rock with nothing to hit, a longer runout is genuinely safe in a way that the same distance above a slab is not.
So what looks like inconsistent spacing usually encodes a hazard map that is invisible unless you know what to look for. On a steep clean section, wide spacing means the equipper judged that a longer fall there costs nothing.
There is also a real ethical tradition in some areas that a route should preserve some commitment, and that over-bolting removes something. That view is contested and it is not the main driver on modern sport routes, but it exists and it varies enormously by region and by crag.
Reply
Report