Ayşe

The stationary case is different in kind, not degree, and that is why it is much worse.

With the car stopped and the engine running, the input shaft is turning with the engine and the output shaft is stationary because the wheels are not moving. There is no speed you can select that matches both — the difference is the entire engine speed.

So attempting to force it into gear means driving gear teeth into other teeth with a large speed difference and no way to bridge it. That is the grinding noise, and it is teeth being damaged rather than a friction surface being worn.

This is also why the clutch pedal is required to select first gear from rest, and why a car with a failed clutch cable can sometimes be driven in the higher gears and cannot be got moving from a standstill.

It is mostly cost multiplied by count, and the multiplication is the part people underestimate.

A blade fuse costs a few cents. A twelve-volt circuit breaker of comparable rating costs several dollars. A modern car has dozens of protected circuits — often fifty or more across two or three fuse boxes.

So the difference is not a few dollars per vehicle, it is a few hundred, on a component that in the overwhelming majority of cars will never operate even once in the vehicle's life. Multiply by production volume and it is an enormous cost for a benefit almost nobody collects.

Size matters as much. A fuse box holding fifty blade fuses is remarkably compact. Fifty breakers is a much larger assembly, and space under a dashboard or in an engine bay is fought over hard.

There is also a genuine engineering argument that has nothing to do with cost, and I think it is underrated.

A blown fuse is a diagnosis. In a car, a fuse operating almost always means a real fault — a chafed wire, a failed motor, water in a connector. It is not like a domestic circuit where you plugged in one appliance too many.

A resettable breaker invites the response of resetting it, repeatedly, on a circuit with an actual short in it. That is worse than being forced to find a replacement fuse and, ideally, to wonder why it went. Fuses fail permanently and visibly, and a blackened fuse tells you something happened.

Speed is the other technical point. Fuses can be very fast, and characteristics are easy to select — fast-blow for electronics, slow-blow for motors that draw a large starting current. Getting equivalent behaviour from a compact cheap breaker is harder.

The coastal detail in your question is worth addressing because it produces a real and harmless symptom that gets used to sell parts.

Discs rust quickly in damp salty air — surface rust appears within a day of rain and looks alarming. It is removed by the pads within a few hundred metres of driving and means nothing. Rust on the friction surface of a disc that is driven regularly is not a defect.

What coastal air genuinely does affect is the parts around the brakes: caliper slide pins seizing, corroded pad hardware, and rusted hubs making discs hard to remove. Those are worth attention at a pad change and they are cheap to sort while everything is apart.

So there may well be a good coastal-climate recommendation available. It is not the one you were given.