Kip

Intercepting a flow rather than emptying a reservoir reframes the whole thing. I had been treating a full tank as evidence something was wrong.

She has formed an association, not a grudge, and that distinction is the whole answer.

What happened is: your presence, in that context, preceded sudden pain. Cats learn that pairing extremely fast — it is a survival mechanism and it does not require any judgement about intent. She is not deciding you are careless. She has a prediction that being near you might hurt, and she is acting on it.

The good news in that framing: an association is undone the same way it was made, by new evidence. Every time she is near you and nothing bad happens, the prediction weakens. Time alone does some of this, but only if the encounters actually happen — a cat who avoids you successfully for two weeks gets no new evidence at all, which is why "give her space" taken too far can stall the repair rather than help it.

So the target is: frequent, unremarkable, non-threatening proximity.

This is clutch drag, and in the common cases it is an adjustment or oil problem rather than a failing clutch.

A wet clutch — which nearly all motorcycles have — is a stack of friction plates and steel plates sitting in engine oil. Pulling the lever separates them by a fraction of a millimetre. It does not create a vacuum between them: the oil film still connects the two stacks slightly, and a small amount of torque always crosses. A little creep at a standstill in gear is normal on many bikes.

What makes it excessive is usually one of:

• Too much free play at the lever, so full travel is not fully separating the plates
• Warped or sticking plates, often from age or from sitting unused
• The wrong oil — anything with friction-modifying additives makes the plates slip past each other rather than releasing cleanly

That last one is worth checking first because it is the cheapest and the most common self-inflicted cause.

For question 3, what works and what does not:

Genuinely effective: a reflective screen on the windscreen. It is the biggest piece of glass and the one the sun goes through most directly; a screen can take several degrees off the whole cabin and a great deal off the dashboard.

Effective and underused: park facing the sun's path, not perpendicular to it. A car nose-on to the sun exposes far less glass area than one broadside. Thinking about where the sun will be in four hours, rather than where it is now, is worth more than any accessory.

Marginal: cracking the windows. It helps a little by letting the hottest layer escape, and the effect is much smaller than people believe because the heat is arriving by radiation, not by trapped air. Weigh it against rain and security.

Does nothing: parking in the shade of a tree at 10am when you are back at 4pm. Shade moves. This one catches everybody, including me.

Yes, they exist, and the way manufacturers do it answers your question by implication: they move the driver out of the oven.

On appliances with LED cavity lighting, the light source sits behind a heat-resistant window in the cavity wall and the electronics live outside it, in the cooler part of the appliance. Sometimes it is not even in the wall — a few designs pipe light in.

That is not something you can retrofit into a fitting designed for a screw-in bulb, which is why you cannot buy one for your oven and can for a new appliance.

The screw-in "oven safe LED" products that do appear are almost always rated to 250°C for the glass envelope while the driver is not, or are meant for a warming drawer rather than an oven. Read what the temperature rating applies to before buying, because the packaging is frequently written to be misread.