Nur

And measure the pattern between the notches, not edge to edge, or you are including the seam allowance twice.

Before you grade anything, do the step that removes most of the guesswork: measure the flat pattern, not just yourself.

Size charts describe bodies. The pattern piece describes the garment, and the difference between them is the ease the designer intended. Two patterns with identical size charts can be drafted with completely different amounts of room, which is why the same nominal size fits differently between brands.

So lay the pattern out and measure across the bust, waist and hip lines, minus the seam allowances, and double it for the full circumference. Compare that against your own measurements. The difference is the ease you will actually get.

What this tells you:

Whether you need the size you think you need. Sometimes the pattern already includes enough room at the hip that you do not need to grade at all.

Whether the garment is meant to be fitted or loose there. A pattern with a lot of ease at the hip is designed to skim, and grading up two sizes gives you a garment two sizes too big in a way the chart did not warn you about.

Many patterns print finished garment measurements somewhere on the envelope or the tissue, which saves you the measuring. It is the most useful number on the packet and the least read.