Zora

The tuning method that actually converges, rather than changing settings and waiting to be annoyed:

Leave the house and log the sensor for a day with the automation disabled. You want the raw state history, not the lights. Then look at when it reported presence in an empty house and correlate against what was happening — heating on, sun on the window, washing machine spinning, someone in the corridor.

Every false trigger has a cause and the log tells you which. Guessing does not.

The same log tells you whether a change worked. Change one thing, log another day, compare. Sounds slow, but it is a week and then it is done, whereas fiddling reactively goes on for months.

If your sensor exposes a raw distance or energy value rather than only a binary state, log that. It shows you exactly which distance band the phantom is at, which usually identifies the object immediately.

One thing to check before you cut anything: whether your device has a physical low-voltage control interface at all.

Older equipment usually has screw terminals for a wall button — trivially easy. Newer equipment increasingly uses a proprietary digital bus between the controller and the wall unit, precisely so third-party controls do not work. On those, a relay across two terminals does nothing and you need a different approach.

Five minutes with the manual or the wiring diagram tells you which world you are in, and it determines whether option one is an evening or a non-starter.