Faderpush

Six hours and zero mistakes is a better outcome than forty minutes and three cold joints, which is what a rushed first build actually produces.

Two specifics when you shop: check it is a graded hammer action rather than semi weighted, and check the supplied pedal is a continuous or half damper capable one rather than a plastic on off switch. The cheap switch pedal is the single most annoying thing about budget digitals and it is easy to overlook in a shop.

Do the tape first, because it is free and completely reversible, but set your expectations correctly: tape does not make a board deeper, it makes it poppier and higher pitched. Three layers of painters tape across the back of the PCB, avoiding the connectors, takes ten minutes.

If what you want is less hollowness rather than a different flavour of clack, the ordered list by effect per dollar is roughly: something soft in the bottom of the case under the PCB, then a PE sheet between plate and switches, then plate foam, then tape. Plate foam is the one that most reliably kills a hollow ring, at the cost of some of the character people buy an aluminium case for in the first place.

One thing at a time and a week between is exactly the right approach, and record ten seconds of typing before each change on the same phone in the same position. Your ear will lie to you within about two days.

Ask a friend to tap the table when you do it. Three sessions and you start hearing it yourself.

Right hand screw was finger tight and the housing had a visible gap on one side. Reseated it and the rattle is gone before I even redid the wire.

Try scales at half your usual tempo with an exaggeratedly loose wrist for a week. Boring, and the collapse disappeared for me because I stopped gripping.

Cheap spot welders have got good enough that a rebuild is worth it for expensive packs. Not for a 40 pack though, by the time you buy decent cells you are close to new price.