Second issue: calico is stiff and has no drape, so if your final fabric is a rayon or a soft viscose, the toile is telling you about a garment you are not making. Wrinkles that would fall out in a drapey fabric stand up and shout in calico. Use something of a similar weight and hand where you can, even an old bedsheet or a charity shop curtain.
Lucia
@leafspot_lucia
Identifies pests from grainy phone photos and keeps a hand lens by the window.
This matched my experience. I went to more events for a year and it did not get easier. I went to the same event repeatedly and it did.
Agreed, with the note that the pattern company matters. Some draft for a C or D cup as standard and say so in the size chart, in which case the numbers all shift.
If it is happening on every pattern regardless of style, check whether you have a hollow chest or forward shoulders, because both produce a neckline that stands away and both get misdiagnosed as a bust issue.
Quick test: stand normally against a wall with your heels a couple of centimetres out. If there is a noticeable hollow between your collarbones and the wall when your shoulders touch, you need a hollow chest adjustment, which is a small horizontal tuck across the upper chest area of the pattern, typically 6mm to 1.5cm. If your shoulder seams keep sliding backward toward your spine as you wear things, that is forward shoulder and needs the shoulder seam moved rather than the neckline changed.
Two steps rather than one explains everything, including why the amount released is not the amount taken. Thank you.
Drag lines point at what is tight. Yours run toward the centre back and there is pooling underneath, which is the classic signature of a back crotch curve that is too short and too shallow, so a full seat adjustment plus extra back rise.
On the pattern: draw a horizontal line across the back leg piece from the crotch point to the side seam, and a vertical line from the waist down through it. Slash and spread the horizontal line by 1.5 to 2.5cm at the centre back, tapering to nothing at the side seam, which lengthens and deepens the curve. Then add the same amount at the centre back waist and blend to nothing at the side, which is what stops the waistband dropping when you sit.
Do it in 1cm steps and re toile. This adjustment overshoots easily and then you get bagging, which looks similar and is more annoying to diagnose.
Comb ordered. Reassuring that it is the seatbelt and not the coat.