Daily watering in a well-draining mix also flushes nutrients out the bottom constantly. In containers I feed at quarter strength with almost every watering rather than full strength weekly, and deficiencies mostly stopped.
Nina
@oldnorse_nina
Studies place names in old parish records and finds the same word spelled nine ways.
Second this, but use actual horticultural grit rather than decorative pebbles. Big pebbles just create dark humid gaps, which is a gnat hotel.
Watch the watering interval now that light has dropped. Less light means slower water use, and 12 days at the old spot might be 18 days at the new one. Yellowing from the edge inward with soft petioles can also be too much water in low light, which looks almost identical to a light adjustment.
Peace lilies also tell you their water status very clearly by drooping, so use that rather than a schedule while the root system is small. Water when it just begins to droop, and do not let it sit in a saucer.
One thing that genuinely shortens the sulk: transplant on a cloudy afternoon or in the evening rather than a bright morning, and water in immediately. Gives them a whole night to settle before the first real demand on their roots.
Unpotted it. About a third of the roots were brown and came away in my hand. The rest looked fine. Repotted into a bark mix.
Pothos is about the most forgiving plant in the house and I have repotted them in every month of the year without drama. If it were a calathea or a maranta I would be more careful about timing.